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Imagine that one evening you are sitting in your home watching television. Suddenly wind and rain begin to pelt the windows in your living room. As you are relaxing watching television, you begin to hear a dripping sound coming from the second floor bathroom. You initially think nothing of the dripping sound, assuming that it is most likely a leaky faucet. As the storm progresses however the dripping gets louder and the intensity increases. You begin to realize that you may have a roof leak.

After the storm progresses, you get up to go investigate the source of the roof leak. Your careful investigation reveals that the neoprene pipe collar used to seal the bathroom vent pipe has deteriorated. It is now allowing water to enter into the attic space and subsequently find its way into the bathroom on your second floor. Now that you have discovered the problem, how do you fix it?

Accessing the Roof Safely

In order to apply an effective repair to correct the roof leak at the pipe you must first gain access to the roof in a safe manner. It should be your top priority to remain safe while completing the repair. If you cannot perform the repair in a safe manner, contact a professional roofing contractor who can safely make the repair for you.

Tools and Materials Required

Repairing a neoprene pipe seal requires specialized tools, equipment and materials in order to complete the project successfully. These tools and equipment allow you to be effective and complete the proper installation of the repair materials.

An important point you need to consider when preparing to complete the replacement of a pipe seal is how to measure the diameter of the pipe through the roof. When measuring a pipe, you measure the inside diameter. Piping is measured from the inside because the thickness of the pipe’s wall varies depending upon the type of material it is. Measure the inside diameter and purchase the neoprene pipe collar to match that measurement.

If part of a shingle is missing, you'll have to replace the whole thing. First see if you have any leftover shingles from the last time the roof was worked on (with any luck, the builder or the roofer who handled the job left some behind). If not, you'll have to buy a bundle at a home center or lumberyard ($15 to $20 per square—100 sq. ft.—of standard three-tab shingles). If you can't find a perfect match, choose the closest one.

Replacing a damaged shingle requires a hammer, a flat pry bar, a utility knife and a handful of 11/4-in. roofing nails. Each shingle is initially secured with four nails; when the next shingle course above is installed, however, its nails also pass through the top edge of the shingles in the course below. 

Begin removing the first row of nails by sliding the pry bar under the shingle immediately above the damaged one and gently lifting it to free it from the sealer strip. You'll see the first row of nails beneath. 

Slip the pry bar under the damaged shingle and pry upward. Once the nail pops up about 1/4 in., remove the pry bar, press the shingle down and pull out the nail. Repeat this procedure for the remaining three nails. Then push the pry bar under the shingle directly above the damaged one and remove the second row of nails the same way. After yanking all eight nails, pull out the damaged shingle. 

If the existing shingles are brittle, you may not be able to pry out the second row of nails without cracking a shingle. In that case, tear out the damaged shingle and cut V-notches in the replacement to fit around the four nails. Slide the new shingle up into place and secure it with four nails. 
Why Insulate Your House?

According to the Department of Energy, heating and cooling account for 50 to 70% of the energy used in the average American home. Inadequate insulation and air leakage are leading causes of energy waste in most homes.

Saves you money and our nation's limited energy resources
Makes your house more comfortable by helping to maintain a uniform temperature throughout the house
Makes walls, ceilings, and floors warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer

The amount of energy you conserve will depend on several factors: your local climate; the size, shape, and construction of your house; the living habits of your family; the type and efficiency of the heating and cooling systems; and the fuel you use. Once the energy savings have paid for the installation cost, energy conserved is money saved - and saving energy will be even more important as utility rates continue go up. 

How Insulation Works:

Heat flows naturally from a warmer to a cooler space. In winter, the heat moves directly from all heated living spaces to the outdoors and to adjacent unheated attics, garages, and basements - wherever there is a difference in temperature.

During the summer, heat moves from outdoors to the house interior. To maintain comfort, the heat lost in winter must be replaced by your heating system and the heat gained in summer must be removed by your air conditioner. Insulating attics, ceiling, walls, decreases the heating or cooling needed by providing an effective resistance to the flow of heat.

Does your home need more insulation? Unless your home was constructed with special attention to energy efficiency, adding insulation will probably reduce your utility bills significantly. Most existing homes in the United States are not insulated to the levels used today. Older homes are likely to use more energy than newer homes, leading to higher heating and air-conditioning bills. 

 R - Value

An insulation's resistance to heat flow is measured or rated in terms of its thermal resistance or R-value. The more heat flow resistance your insulation provides the higher your "R-value" and the lower your cost will be to heat or cool your home will be. 

To determine whether you should add insulation, you first need to find out how much insulation you already have in your home and where. If you live in a newer house, you can probably find out this information from the builder. If you live in an older house, you'll need to inspect the insulation yourself or give us a call for a free insulation evaluation.